Thursday, April 10, 2014
Blue bonnet country
I had wanted to ride the Hill Country for years. But not just anytime. I wanted to catch the Blue Bonnets in bloom. I did. Almond with numerous other wild flowers. Special.
Day 30. Halfway there...
Monday, April 7. From Lost Maples State Natural area to Kerrville, TX. 50 miles
Today was one of the best! Period. Short mileage didn't mean necessarily a real easy day as the gravity alert for Texas Hill Country is by definition of at least a moderate rating at all times. Wind? Don't remember, so not a headwind probably. Scenery? High alert. Off the charts. Lots of sun. A great day.
The country had changed from the bigger mountains of the western hill area, mountains more pronounced and numerous. Peaks that were ranging at over 2500 feet of elevation, not high as compared to Emory Pass, but rugged and steep, had transitioned to more rolling country. Lots of trees. Live oaks everywhere, fenced in country. One feature that caught our attention, very solid, very high fences. Apparently there is a LOT of big game hunting on these multi hundred acre fenced in areas. Exotic species of deer primarily according to JC, pictured later. JC actually restores bird habitats on his acreage.
Today was also made special by our time spent riding along the Guadalupe River. Complete with a LOT of water, literally cutting into rocky hillsides forming incredibly beautiful scenery. Whether a gentle, green (a new color for us and actual grass on the roadsides) pasture like valleys to the rugged, canyon type features. At some point civilization caught up with us and the houses, camps, resorts and all imagined along the river were Texas sized big.
A special moment in Hunt, TX. The halfway point in mileage for the trip. Celebrated with cinnamon rolls! Hot, sweet, covered in calories. Yes! Thank you Paul and Nicole!
On to Kerrville where we are greeted with news of a surprise night of eating out and a quick thunderstorm! We actually get zero rain at the camping area, but strong winds. Three major branches on the ground among but not on our tents and one missing tent greet our return from dinner. If the 'tumbleweed' tent had taken a slightly different route, the Guadalupe would have had another feature, Candy's blue tent.
The camping site in a Kerrville was along the river. I think everyone arrived there by a different route. The map route had a lot of turns so there were a lot of improvisational alternatives selected. Some by thoughtful studying of the map, and others like me jumped at the first sign mentioning the park that we were wanting to get to for the night.
Just a little addition of interest at the time, the darkening, brewing clouds of the building thunderstorm that hit later. I wasn't really lost, but like Daniel Boone once said, ' I was never lost, but once or twice was confused'. I was confused. I found Derrick, our riding friend from England, and found relief, but not the camp. Derrick was also having a Daniel Boone moment. One rider, Candy, rode past the park by 5 miles. She stopped, asked some folks that had been moving to a new house all day, where to go. They loaded Candy and bike up in their van, after all day working and delivered her to the park. We have met a great number of great people on this trip. Just as I hoped...and knew. This is a country of great people! Just go anywhere, they are there.
In the pictures,
Need some boots?
Also a common feature of the hill country roads are low washes that are prone to flash floods. Notice the water level signage. You see these a LOT.
Today was one of the best! Period. Short mileage didn't mean necessarily a real easy day as the gravity alert for Texas Hill Country is by definition of at least a moderate rating at all times. Wind? Don't remember, so not a headwind probably. Scenery? High alert. Off the charts. Lots of sun. A great day.
The country had changed from the bigger mountains of the western hill area, mountains more pronounced and numerous. Peaks that were ranging at over 2500 feet of elevation, not high as compared to Emory Pass, but rugged and steep, had transitioned to more rolling country. Lots of trees. Live oaks everywhere, fenced in country. One feature that caught our attention, very solid, very high fences. Apparently there is a LOT of big game hunting on these multi hundred acre fenced in areas. Exotic species of deer primarily according to JC, pictured later. JC actually restores bird habitats on his acreage.
Today was also made special by our time spent riding along the Guadalupe River. Complete with a LOT of water, literally cutting into rocky hillsides forming incredibly beautiful scenery. Whether a gentle, green (a new color for us and actual grass on the roadsides) pasture like valleys to the rugged, canyon type features. At some point civilization caught up with us and the houses, camps, resorts and all imagined along the river were Texas sized big.
A special moment in Hunt, TX. The halfway point in mileage for the trip. Celebrated with cinnamon rolls! Hot, sweet, covered in calories. Yes! Thank you Paul and Nicole!
On to Kerrville where we are greeted with news of a surprise night of eating out and a quick thunderstorm! We actually get zero rain at the camping area, but strong winds. Three major branches on the ground among but not on our tents and one missing tent greet our return from dinner. If the 'tumbleweed' tent had taken a slightly different route, the Guadalupe would have had another feature, Candy's blue tent.
The camping site in a Kerrville was along the river. I think everyone arrived there by a different route. The map route had a lot of turns so there were a lot of improvisational alternatives selected. Some by thoughtful studying of the map, and others like me jumped at the first sign mentioning the park that we were wanting to get to for the night.
Just a little addition of interest at the time, the darkening, brewing clouds of the building thunderstorm that hit later. I wasn't really lost, but like Daniel Boone once said, ' I was never lost, but once or twice was confused'. I was confused. I found Derrick, our riding friend from England, and found relief, but not the camp. Derrick was also having a Daniel Boone moment. One rider, Candy, rode past the park by 5 miles. She stopped, asked some folks that had been moving to a new house all day, where to go. They loaded Candy and bike up in their van, after all day working and delivered her to the park. We have met a great number of great people on this trip. Just as I hoped...and knew. This is a country of great people! Just go anywhere, they are there.
In the pictures,
Need some boots?
Also a common feature of the hill country roads are low washes that are prone to flash floods. Notice the water level signage. You see these a LOT.
Days 27-29. Seminole Canyon to Montell, TX to Lost Maples SNA.
Friday April 4th thru Sunday April 6 th. 160 miles total. Now at 1517 total miles
Doing some combining here. The ride to Del Rio continued our time on Hwy 90, been on this road since Alpine. A short, easy day. Gravity good, downhill. Wind good, behind. More west Texas lands. Del Rio is on the border, most notable place of interest here is the Laughlin AF base. Did laundry. No connection to internet. Easy day.
Del Rio to Montell, way different. First, still on The 90, but....Texas chip and seal surface at its absolutely worst. And that is saying a lot. Overcast, first day of that. No rain, but no sun. Gravity, flat, wind, big time in our face. A fairly miserable ride. No, very miserable. Oh yeah, add a lot of traffic. 80+ mile day. Did leave The 90 finally. Off to the hinterlands. As if that wasn't where we had been.
Got to a little town called Bracketville. Three of our riders were followed by a dog going out of town. They repeatedly tried to get the dog to go back. Didn't happen. They finally got the dog's ID info off the collar and called. No answer. On this tough, windy, long day, these three riders returned to town, found the address, reunited the dog with its owner. Both dog and owner were overjoyed. Thanks, Dina, Gina and Nicole for the effort. By the way, the dog was originally found on the border and probably didn't speak English, thus not understanding commands to go home. ESL program needed.
When the day was done, all gathered in the rec room of the campground where we were staying and anyone showing the slightest inkling of saying something bright, cheerful or positive for the day....was put on notice that such positives would not be tolerated. I was happy the day was over. I kept quiet.
But we had left the desert and were in the Texas Hill Country. This is legendary country for riders. I've wanted to ride here in the springtime for years. We were in this country for 5 days, now leaving tomorrow as we exit for east Texas. I was not disappointed.
The day to Lost Maples was stunning, even though we had the closest thing we've had to rain yet,
which wasn't rain but a fine mist. The country was rolling, three good climbs, three good downhills. Blue bonnet country, in full bloom. A great day.
Doing some combining here. The ride to Del Rio continued our time on Hwy 90, been on this road since Alpine. A short, easy day. Gravity good, downhill. Wind good, behind. More west Texas lands. Del Rio is on the border, most notable place of interest here is the Laughlin AF base. Did laundry. No connection to internet. Easy day.
Del Rio to Montell, way different. First, still on The 90, but....Texas chip and seal surface at its absolutely worst. And that is saying a lot. Overcast, first day of that. No rain, but no sun. Gravity, flat, wind, big time in our face. A fairly miserable ride. No, very miserable. Oh yeah, add a lot of traffic. 80+ mile day. Did leave The 90 finally. Off to the hinterlands. As if that wasn't where we had been.
Got to a little town called Bracketville. Three of our riders were followed by a dog going out of town. They repeatedly tried to get the dog to go back. Didn't happen. They finally got the dog's ID info off the collar and called. No answer. On this tough, windy, long day, these three riders returned to town, found the address, reunited the dog with its owner. Both dog and owner were overjoyed. Thanks, Dina, Gina and Nicole for the effort. By the way, the dog was originally found on the border and probably didn't speak English, thus not understanding commands to go home. ESL program needed.
When the day was done, all gathered in the rec room of the campground where we were staying and anyone showing the slightest inkling of saying something bright, cheerful or positive for the day....was put on notice that such positives would not be tolerated. I was happy the day was over. I kept quiet.
But we had left the desert and were in the Texas Hill Country. This is legendary country for riders. I've wanted to ride here in the springtime for years. We were in this country for 5 days, now leaving tomorrow as we exit for east Texas. I was not disappointed.
The day to Lost Maples was stunning, even though we had the closest thing we've had to rain yet,
Special Edition: Lonesome Dove and Judge Roy Bean
One note from the ride to Seminole State Park. We rode past a group of geology students studying the rock structure where Hwy 90 was cut through a hillside. These various cuts were interesting and I told the students that we've seen a lot of rocks, way too many of these rocks. I added to that count during that night's camping when my air mattress decided it no longer wanted to stay inflated and I then regretted not having done anything towards removing the many rocks that were at one time insignificant but now formed an interesting geological pattern in my backside. Normally you move to rearrange the contact points, but....you might recall this was the night of full and total body cramps. Whatever moved, cramped. A loooooong night.
On to Lonesome Dove and Judge Roy Bean. Lonesome Dove is my favorite book ever. By Larry McMurtry, it tells the story of two aging Texas Rangers living along the Rio Grande in south Texas. This is where we were. I love the characters, Augustus McRae (played by Robert Duval in the mini-series) and Woodrow Call (Tommy Lee Jones). The characters are so well defined, interesting, and become part of your life. These two characters are opposites, yet it works. The descriptions of the land, the times, the history are epic and flowing. I simply loved this book. And here we were, in LD territory. And...you could always here that singular, sometimes multiple lonesome dove cooing.
When we entered the Hill country, the Nueces River, the place of the snake attack, ouch. The Guadalupe River, and more. So alive with visions and sounds of the book.
I did read that they almost did a movie in 1972 of LD. Would have starred John Wayne as Call, Jimmy Stewart as McRae and Henry Fonda as Jake Spoon. Interesting, but the book is too big for one movie. And Duvall and Jones ARE McRae and Call.
But one 1972 movie that did make it was Judge Roy Bean, law west of the Pecos. Starred Paul Newman, a comedy of sorts, showing the historical character and his time in Langtry, TX. Judge Bean was infatuated with the English actress/singer of the late 1800s, Lillie Langtry. The Judge claimed he named the town for her, the railroad said not, it was named for a railroad section chief. But the Judge held court in his Jersey Lillie saloon, named in her honor and the court days were good for business. There was never jail time, only fines. Often the fine being to buy rounds of drinks in the Jude's saloon. He revered Miss Langtry and she did come visit, but only
after his death.
I grew up watching westerns, not sure the allure ever left my soul. These days, this country, really brought out these memories. We still hear the doves, I still love the sound.
Pictures attached. First some country that maybe remind you of LD and then the Judge Roy Bean collection.
On to Lonesome Dove and Judge Roy Bean. Lonesome Dove is my favorite book ever. By Larry McMurtry, it tells the story of two aging Texas Rangers living along the Rio Grande in south Texas. This is where we were. I love the characters, Augustus McRae (played by Robert Duval in the mini-series) and Woodrow Call (Tommy Lee Jones). The characters are so well defined, interesting, and become part of your life. These two characters are opposites, yet it works. The descriptions of the land, the times, the history are epic and flowing. I simply loved this book. And here we were, in LD territory. And...you could always here that singular, sometimes multiple lonesome dove cooing.
When we entered the Hill country, the Nueces River, the place of the snake attack, ouch. The Guadalupe River, and more. So alive with visions and sounds of the book.
I did read that they almost did a movie in 1972 of LD. Would have starred John Wayne as Call, Jimmy Stewart as McRae and Henry Fonda as Jake Spoon. Interesting, but the book is too big for one movie. And Duvall and Jones ARE McRae and Call.
But one 1972 movie that did make it was Judge Roy Bean, law west of the Pecos. Starred Paul Newman, a comedy of sorts, showing the historical character and his time in Langtry, TX. Judge Bean was infatuated with the English actress/singer of the late 1800s, Lillie Langtry. The Judge claimed he named the town for her, the railroad said not, it was named for a railroad section chief. But the Judge held court in his Jersey Lillie saloon, named in her honor and the court days were good for business. There was never jail time, only fines. Often the fine being to buy rounds of drinks in the Jude's saloon. He revered Miss Langtry and she did come visit, but only
I grew up watching westerns, not sure the allure ever left my soul. These days, this country, really brought out these memories. We still hear the doves, I still love the sound.
Pictures attached. First some country that maybe remind you of LD and then the Judge Roy Bean collection.
Day 26. 80 on The 90...Sanderson to Seminole Canyon State Park.
Wednesday, April 2nd. 81 miles on US Hwy 90
Just a note in general. I am actually going into catch up mode on the blog. I write this on April 10 in Austin, TX, a rest day. The day I am blogging on now was the first of 6 nights in a row of camping, no connecting service of any kind for 4 of those nights, one night we ate out and one night I had cooking/cleaning duties, so no time then and no blogging.
As I have mentioned before, weather has not been an issue. Sun, sun and more sun. The only forecast you need are wind direction and gravity, both always present in west Texas. Today it was moderate gravity, meaning rolling country and moderate headwind.
This is dry country. The mountains are receding, the land becoming flat, with more and more washes. More scrub vegetation, not yet trees, but...many more birds. One of the true joys of riding has been the beautiful songs of the birds.
The naming if the creeks is still without imagination. Today we crossed without fanfare, 'Cow Creek'!
The first 60 miles was against a breeze that was really refreshing, much like being at the beach, sitting in a chair, watching the waves, reading a good book...but it wasn't that. It was humidity, coming from the east. Felt good, but later...you will see.
60 miles brought us to Langtry, TX, more about this in a separate blog. We found the first 'open' services in 60 miles. A gas station/dinner with huge Fred Flintstone rock/boulder picnic tables. A fine spot, (it had shade and food), with lively workers. (Picture a bedraggled lady older than me, 3 sizes below too thin, salt and pepper hair and I don't mean hair color, moving like she was wearing bike shoes and riding too long, sorry that was me, talking to no one in particular through a cloud of smoke, saying "if I could hit a moving target, I would just shoot myself"! On her return amble she thought we said we were calling a body shop, really it was a bike shop, she muttered "make an appointment for me"!
We crossed the Pecos River, the unofficial line between far west Texas and west Texas. A river with water! No longer west of the Pecos, we move on, and on, and on. Mile 70-80 with the addition of the humidity knocked me out. I sweated for the first time in days. Every part of my body cramped that night. And we were camped in a beautiful state park in Texas with the name of an Indian tribe in Florida. Go figure. At least the name was different, not dry or cow and the river had water. Oh yeah, did I mention humidity and cramps? Stars, beyond description. Deep in some part of Texas....
In the pictures...
Miles of dirt roads along the main roads where the Border a Patrol looks for footprints in the dirt. Trying to establish patters of entry. The tires are used for dragging the surface, like the Little League park of the old days in Biscoe.
Lots of picnic tables along the way complete with ladders to cross the fence to the bushes.
Just a note in general. I am actually going into catch up mode on the blog. I write this on April 10 in Austin, TX, a rest day. The day I am blogging on now was the first of 6 nights in a row of camping, no connecting service of any kind for 4 of those nights, one night we ate out and one night I had cooking/cleaning duties, so no time then and no blogging.
As I have mentioned before, weather has not been an issue. Sun, sun and more sun. The only forecast you need are wind direction and gravity, both always present in west Texas. Today it was moderate gravity, meaning rolling country and moderate headwind.
This is dry country. The mountains are receding, the land becoming flat, with more and more washes. More scrub vegetation, not yet trees, but...many more birds. One of the true joys of riding has been the beautiful songs of the birds.
The naming if the creeks is still without imagination. Today we crossed without fanfare, 'Cow Creek'!
The first 60 miles was against a breeze that was really refreshing, much like being at the beach, sitting in a chair, watching the waves, reading a good book...but it wasn't that. It was humidity, coming from the east. Felt good, but later...you will see.
60 miles brought us to Langtry, TX, more about this in a separate blog. We found the first 'open' services in 60 miles. A gas station/dinner with huge Fred Flintstone rock/boulder picnic tables. A fine spot, (it had shade and food), with lively workers. (Picture a bedraggled lady older than me, 3 sizes below too thin, salt and pepper hair and I don't mean hair color, moving like she was wearing bike shoes and riding too long, sorry that was me, talking to no one in particular through a cloud of smoke, saying "if I could hit a moving target, I would just shoot myself"! On her return amble she thought we said we were calling a body shop, really it was a bike shop, she muttered "make an appointment for me"!
We crossed the Pecos River, the unofficial line between far west Texas and west Texas. A river with water! No longer west of the Pecos, we move on, and on, and on. Mile 70-80 with the addition of the humidity knocked me out. I sweated for the first time in days. Every part of my body cramped that night. And we were camped in a beautiful state park in Texas with the name of an Indian tribe in Florida. Go figure. At least the name was different, not dry or cow and the river had water. Oh yeah, did I mention humidity and cramps? Stars, beyond description. Deep in some part of Texas....
In the pictures...
Miles of dirt roads along the main roads where the Border a Patrol looks for footprints in the dirt. Trying to establish patters of entry. The tires are used for dragging the surface, like the Little League park of the old days in Biscoe.
Lots of picnic tables along the way complete with ladders to cross the fence to the bushes.
Wednesday, April 2, 2014
Day 25. Marathon to Sanderson, TX. 55 miles. No services, No traffic, No worries
Wed April 2.
So far in this trip we ask about gravity direction, (up or down), wind direction, (front or back) and temps, (mostly how cold in the morning Rain? Not a worry. Really hot temps, not in a while. Today's forecast? Cool in the am, wind in the rear and gravity, sloping downwards. A good day.
There was so little traffic. There were also No Services for the 55 miles from Marathon to Sanderson. Didn't really need any. It was a quiet ride. So vast, so wide open and so quiet.
I had mentioned earlier that we haven't seen much in the nature of rivers, creeks, well in general, no water. We were approaching a bridge, nothing unusual, many of those over the ravines, washes, etc. yet this bridge came accompanied with a sign. Could it be a river? No, not even close. A gully named Dry Creek. Talk about basic, no imagination. Just Dry Creek. Oh well.
There are ranches in the area. One sign on the highway named the ranch and noted the drive to the ranch house was 18 miles. Quite a driveway.
In a motel tonight. I think the next several nights are camping. I think heat will be more of an issue as we approach Del Rio, another border town and rain has even been mentioned for Austin in a few days. The heat is coming and I don't wish drought on anyone, but just a few more dry days. Would be nice. Gravity? We were at 8,000 ft at Emory Pass and are now down to 3000 or so feet. Still have the overall direction of down to Florida, but...there is something called the Texas Hill Country coming up, so we'll see.
Pictures are a little slow in downloading today, so I will add them later. The one showing here: we have been warned about this being rattlesnake country. Sticks should not look so much like snakes! A a quick glance? Not good for the heart.
So far in this trip we ask about gravity direction, (up or down), wind direction, (front or back) and temps, (mostly how cold in the morning Rain? Not a worry. Really hot temps, not in a while. Today's forecast? Cool in the am, wind in the rear and gravity, sloping downwards. A good day.
There was so little traffic. There were also No Services for the 55 miles from Marathon to Sanderson. Didn't really need any. It was a quiet ride. So vast, so wide open and so quiet.
I had mentioned earlier that we haven't seen much in the nature of rivers, creeks, well in general, no water. We were approaching a bridge, nothing unusual, many of those over the ravines, washes, etc. yet this bridge came accompanied with a sign. Could it be a river? No, not even close. A gully named Dry Creek. Talk about basic, no imagination. Just Dry Creek. Oh well.
There are ranches in the area. One sign on the highway named the ranch and noted the drive to the ranch house was 18 miles. Quite a driveway.
In a motel tonight. I think the next several nights are camping. I think heat will be more of an issue as we approach Del Rio, another border town and rain has even been mentioned for Austin in a few days. The heat is coming and I don't wish drought on anyone, but just a few more dry days. Would be nice. Gravity? We were at 8,000 ft at Emory Pass and are now down to 3000 or so feet. Still have the overall direction of down to Florida, but...there is something called the Texas Hill Country coming up, so we'll see.
Pictures are a little slow in downloading today, so I will add them later. The one showing here: we have been warned about this being rattlesnake country. Sticks should not look so much like snakes! A a quick glance? Not good for the heart.
Tuesday, April 1, 2014
Day 24. Back in the saddle again
Tuesday April 1st. Alpine to Marathon, TX.
As you probably know, I returned home for a brief respite for my father-in-law's funeral. By plane and train I arrived in Alpine, TX this morning being greeted by the members of our ride. They didn't have to be there, but were. There were "we miss you" balloons on my bike. And doughnuts! Maybe it was the doughnuts that got them there, but whatever it was, I was overwhelmed by the kindness.
On the train there was a lady that was bound and determined to have a conversation. No amount of disinterest could alter her direction and I was the designated listener. She was getting off in Alpine also and worried that the folks that she needed to meet her hadn't confirmed that intent. She proceeded to bemoan the lack of public transportation in rural areas. And folks, west Texas is nothing if not rural.. I suggested that there might not be enough public to justify such transportation, but.....blah, blah, blah. Rescued by the train's arrival.
But what words might you use to describe west Texas. Windy. Scrub lands. Flat. Windy. Sandy. Rocky. Windy. Canyons. Windy. Treeless. Mountains. Windy. Sunny. Dry. And windy.
It's all of these things. And beautiful in its special way. The stars, the solitude, the sense of largeness. I like west Texas. Look at the pictures and choose your own words.
As you probably know, I returned home for a brief respite for my father-in-law's funeral. By plane and train I arrived in Alpine, TX this morning being greeted by the members of our ride. They didn't have to be there, but were. There were "we miss you" balloons on my bike. And doughnuts! Maybe it was the doughnuts that got them there, but whatever it was, I was overwhelmed by the kindness.
On the train there was a lady that was bound and determined to have a conversation. No amount of disinterest could alter her direction and I was the designated listener. She was getting off in Alpine also and worried that the folks that she needed to meet her hadn't confirmed that intent. She proceeded to bemoan the lack of public transportation in rural areas. And folks, west Texas is nothing if not rural.. I suggested that there might not be enough public to justify such transportation, but.....blah, blah, blah. Rescued by the train's arrival.
But what words might you use to describe west Texas. Windy. Scrub lands. Flat. Windy. Sandy. Rocky. Windy. Canyons. Windy. Treeless. Mountains. Windy. Sunny. Dry. And windy.
It's all of these things. And beautiful in its special way. The stars, the solitude, the sense of largeness. I like west Texas. Look at the pictures and choose your own words.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)